Written in Stone: Climbing History

Alan Watts Sets Off a Chain Reaction

Check out our new book, Written In Stone: The 1990s!
In early 1983, in a small backwater area in Oregon with less than stellar rock, Smith Rock, sport climbing history was quietly being made. Alan Watts had all but climbed out the cracks in the area and had turned his attention to the blank faces and lasercut aretes. He would have to bend the rules to get it done, but with nobody around to tell him otherwise, he got to work. The result would be not only the climb recognized as the first sport climb in the country, Watt’s Tots, but a short, steep, gymnastic arete that would set off a chain reaction that changed American – and world – climbing culture forever. 
 
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Season Two is generously supported by Rab. 
This episode is supported by Tension Climbing. Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout.
This episode is supported by our research partner, NOLS: The National Outdoor Leadership School.
Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.

David Chambre on Edlinger, Tribout, and French Sport Climbing History

Check out our new book, Written In Stone: The 1990s!
Kris chats with French legend David Chambre, the author of one of the best and most beautiful reference books out there for '90s climbing history, The 9th Grade. David’s previous book, co-written with Jibé Tribout, The 8th Grade, is a treasure trove of French climbing history of the late 1970s and early to mid 1980s. They discuss the influence of Patrick Edlinger on both French and world climbing history. 
Discussed in the episode:
The difference between the two Patricks.
The rivalry between the Parisians and Edlinger.
Edlinger’s influence on climbing culture.
The effect of fame on Edlinger.
Tribout’s ability to provoke.
French climbing history.
Check out more here!
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Get David's Book The 9th Grade
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Season Two is generously supported by Rab. 
This episode is supported by Tension Climbing. Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout.
Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.

Jibé Tribout and Arnould T'Kint on Patrick Edlinger and Climbing in the '80s

Check out our new book, Written In Stone: The 1990s!
Kris sits down in Wyoming with two absolute legends from the '80s, Jibé Tribout and Arnould T’Kint, to talk about Patrick Edlinger and the birth of sport climbing as we know it. 
Belgian climbing legend Arnould T’Kint did the third 8a in the world, and the first outside of the US, as well as reportedly being the first to onsight 8a. 
Jibé Tribout is a french and world climbing legend who, through the '80s and '90s, was always at the leading edge of difficulty, from 13a to 14c.
They discuss:
Pushing grades in the '80s.
The origins of free-climbing as a pursuit.
The rivalry between Tribout and Patrick Edlinger.
The scene at Buoux and Verdon in the '80s.
The benefits of friendly competition at the crag.
The first actual comps.
Tribout playing the villain.
Check out more here!
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Season Two is generously supported by Rab. 
Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.

Patrick Edlinger is a Rock Star

Check out our new book, Written In Stone: The 1990s!
There is no icon of 1980's climbing with the starpower of Patrick Edlinger. Known as Le Blonde, it's estimated that by the mid 1990's, Edlinger was responsible for inspiring 80% of France's climbers to join the sport. Not only was he one of the first to embrace sport climbing, he defined the style and movement of the era.
But the life of the rock star is often one of tragedy. The higher the rise, the further the fall. How would Edlinger deal with being at the top of the mountain?
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Season Two is generously supported by Rab. 
This episode is supported by Tension Climbing. Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout.
Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.

Kurt Albert and the Birth of Sport Climbing

Check out our new book, Written In Stone: The 1990s!
As the end of the 1970’s neared, climbers, more and more, the world over, were wondering the same thing. “How hard can we climb?
In this setup episode we look at the factors that coalesced right there at the end of the 70's and beginning of the 80's to help pave the way for what we now call sport climbing. 
New equipment, new tactics, and most important, ushered in by a German giant named Kurt Albert, were new rules. 
Check out more here!
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Season Two is generously supported by Rab. 
This episode is supported by Tension Climbing.
Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing. 

Season 2: The 1980s

Check out our new book, Written In Stone: The 1990s!
Climbing, in the 1990s, as you’ve already heard, was all punk rock and new wave, rising standards and superstar climbers pushing each other forward through friendly – and not so friendly – rivalries. And it was huge.
But all of that bravado started somewhere. It wasn’t some Big Bang event. Instead, January 1st, 1990 was a product of the previous decade. A continuation of the countercultural need to rail against the conservatism, materialism and, well, traditionalism of the cultural norm. What had been counterculture in the '60s and '70s had become, in fact, climbing culture, and there was a new class of climbers unwilling to be subservient to what came before. They wanted something entirely new. Entirely theirs. Something that bucked against the tired old ways their fathers and mothers and grandparents had climbed.  
They were louder. They were stronger. They were better. By miles. And they knew it.
Season 2, The 1980s, coming soon.

BONUS | Remus Knowles on the Climbers and Ascents We Missed in Season 1

Check out our new book, Written In Stone: The 1990s!
Remus Knowles runs https://climbing-history.org/ , and since he's a fan of the show, I asked him to come on and tell me which climbers and ascents we missed in Season 1. He showed up with a great list of climbers including Leo Houlding, Klem Loskot and more. I do my best to defend my choices, but Remus makes some great points.
Become a Patron and get this full episode for free at: https://www.patreon.com/secretstonersclub
Links to things we discuss:
Steve McClure and Mutation: https://climbing-history.org/climb/392/mutation
Klem Loskot profile and videos: https://climbing-history.org/climber/941/klem-loskot
Beat Kammerlander free soloing Mordillo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8iyaCK-xf10&t=2s
Alain Robert's Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/alainrobertofficial
The Alpine Trilogy: https://climbing-history.org/list/11/the-alpine-trilogy
Jam Crack Podcast with Leo Houlding Part 1: https://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2023/12/5/jcpc-142-leo-houlding-part-1
Jam Crack Podcast with Leo Houlding Part 2: https://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2023/12/5/jcpc-142-leo-houlding-part-2

BONUS | Matt Samet on Climbing Mags from the '90s to Now

Check out our new book, Written In Stone: The 1990s!
Matt Samet is a legend of the climbing magazine world, having worked for Climbing, Rock & Ice and Alpinist as an editor, writer and general voice of credibility. Not everyone in the industry is core to the climbing lifestyle, but Matt definitely is. He loves this.
In this episode we discuss the role of the magazines then and now, the demise of print, my and others criticism of the magazines and the short comings of the media, even in it's heyday.
Become a Patron and get this full episode for free at https://www.patreon.com/secretstonersclub
 

Climbing in the '90s: Cultural Shifts and Lessons Learned from Season One

Check out our new book, Written In Stone: The 1990s!
Sometimes you need time away to realize what you were in the midst of. 
In this episode Kris reflects on the season, where the true cultural shifts in climbing came, and the lessons that climbers can take away from examining climbing history this way.
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Thank you to our partner, Tension Climbing. Tension creates tools to help you elevate your climbing experience. Check out the goods here and use code STONE for 10% off anything but the full Tension Board set-ups, hardware, and gift cards. When you support Tension, you're supporting the team at Plug Tone creating this show. 
Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing. Use code STONE at checkout for 20% off. Details at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/stone

Eva Lopez on Women in Sports, Rivalries, and What Josune Means to Climbing History

Check out our new book, Written In Stone: The 1990s!
Eva Lopez is one of the top Spanish climbers in history. While she is largely known as one of the world’s foremost researchers on training for climbing, she’s also a crusher. She was the 5th woman to to climb 8c and in 2013, at 42 years old, climbed her first 8c+, a route she bolted called Potemkin. 
In this episode, Eva and Kris discuss the state of Spanish climbing in the 1990’s and what it was like watching Josune Bereziartu come into her own during those years. They also dig into the woman vs. woman rivalries that are often played up by the media and why it’s less common to see that happen today, and what Josune and her incredible accomplishments mean to climbing history.
Check out more here!
Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE.
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Thank you to our partner, Tension Climbing. Tension creates tools to help you elevate your climbing experience. Check out the goods here and use code STONE for 10% off anything but the full Tension Board set-ups, hardware, and gift cards. When you support Tension, you're supporting the team at Plug Tone creating this show. 
Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing. Use code STONE at checkout for 20% off. Details at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/stone